Is New Balance Winning the Footwear Game of Thrones?

If you asked me three years ago what came to my mind when thinking of New Balance, I would’ve said “Dad shoe.” I remember the days when the brand could be found at Walmart and Ross, and unless you were specifically choosing comfort over style, you were probably going to overlook them. I, like many other Gen Zers, went for the trendier footwear brands instead — Nike, Jordans, Adidas and the list goes on. Today, in a world of Pinterest boards, neutral colors and stylish comfort, I find myself regretting overlooking the brand years ago.

In recent years, New Balance’s rise in popularity has surprised many of us. The brand ended 2023 with a revenue of over $5 billion, a 23% increase from the previous year, according to Hypebeast. That same year, I remember endlessly scrolling through fashion TikTok and watching videos about trending shoes. I saw New Balance 550s and 530s on almost everybody’s lists and I remember thinking, “Really? The dad shoe?” Nonetheless, I gave in. Today I own my own pair of green and gray 550s and a pair of gray 574s. And as soon as my college student finances allow, I will be saving up for a pair of 2002Rs. 

The Genesis

Whether it was popular or not, New Balance has always been around. The brand’s beginnings can be traced back to 1906 in Boston. That year, an English immigrant named William J. Riley Founded an orthopedic footwear company, called “New Balance Arch Support Company.” Riley’s very first design was an arch insert inspired by the design of a chicken foot. His priority was to offer support to those working on their feet all day. Knowing that the brand has always focused on comfort is no surprise considering that America’s dads have loved it since before Gen Zers put their eyes on it.

In 1938, New Balance moved from only making arch inserts to releasing its first running shoe, catapulting the company into a whole new market. In 1941, they began making and selling sneakers for other sports, such as tennis, boxing and baseball. By the 1980s, New Balance was well-established and known for its running shoes. However, the rise of one of New Balance’s biggest competitor, Nike, meant trouble for the brand. One thing Nike had that New Balance didn’t was its use of athlete endorsements. 

While Nike partnered with world-famous athletes like Michael Jordan and Andre Agassi, New Balance stayed loyal to its “Endorsed by No One” campaign, which involved shying away from athlete endorsements. It wasn’t until 2009 that New Balance started partnering with professional athletes, such as baseball player Miguel Cabrera and NBA star Matt Bonner. 

The Athlete and the Cool Girl

Ever since it decided to ditch its “endorsed by no one” philosophy, New Balance has partnered with several different athletes and even created a unique shoe – the 990 ‘Made In USA’ – for then-president, Barack Obama in 2012. But, besides athletes and political figures, there’s an asset New Balance has been using very well in recent years: the cool girl. 

If you find yourself on the fashion side of Pinterest, especially the streetwear corner, you probably have seen a few mood boards full of outfits complemented by a pair of neutral-colored New Balance sneakers – any model, really. The same can be said for fashion TikTok, and even fashion magazines like Vogue and GQ. In 2023, Vogue published an article titled “The Best Supermodel Sneakers Under $100,” and surprise: New Balance 574s are number six on the list. Earlier this year, GQ published another article about one of the brand’s most recent releases: the WRPD Runner, demonstrating New Balance’s relevance in today’s fashion scene.

New Balance’s social media presence and appearance in fashion magazines can be linked to the fact that multiple celebrities have been seen wearing the brand. Some notable examples are Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber and Taylor Swift. In short, the internet’s “cool girls” are wearing New Balance, so of course everyone else will follow. However, the cool guys have not fallen behind either, with figures like Timothee Chalamet, Justin Bieber and Pharrell Williams having been spotted wearing the brand as well. 

The Power of Nostalgia

In a time of climate change, political turmoil and unlimited access to the online world, it only makes sense that younger generations turn to nostalgia to find a sense of unity and comfort. I constantly come across videos of young adults and teenagers expressing how much they wish people still dressed like they did in the ’90s or recreating popular ’90s celebrity outfits. Many Gen Zers also want to recreate ’90s athleisure seen on figures like Princess Diana at the time. New Balance has been able to capitalize off of this nostalgia by re-releasing shoes from that decade, such as the 530s and the 850s. 

The internet’s realizing that comfort can be stylish, and New Balance’s “dad shoe” reputation is only beneficial. Competitors like Nike and Adidas remain relevant and in high demand. But, if there’s one thing that New Balance has demonstrated in the past year is that it’s willing to evolve with the times while remaining true to its original essence. New Balance is getting ahead of the game because, while it continues to develop new styles and change its marketing strategies, it’s also making us see that its shoes were always cool to begin with.